Fixing a Sewage Ejection Plastic Pump

Use a plastic zip tie to attach the new switch cord to the Plastic Pump(KEXON) at the same point the old cord was attached. When sewage ejection pumps fail, you can quickly have an ugly mess on the basement floor. Before you panic and call the plumber (minimum charge $250), make sure the “float” switch works. Most sewage ejector pumps and some sump pumps have a floating ball attached to the pump by a separate electrical cord—if you see two cords coming out of the basin, you have a float switch. This switch activates the pump when the water reaches a certain height. The switch is plugged in with a “piggyback” plug, and the pump is plugged into the back of it so it doesn't turn on until the switch does (Photo 1). Unfortunately, these switches may only last half as long as the pump, according to manufacturers. However, universal replacement switches are available at home centers and plumbing suppliers for $20, and replacing the switch is simple.
First check the circuit breaker and GFCI outlet. If they're OK, unplug the pump from the back of the piggyback plug and plug it in directly. If the pump kicks on, the switch is bad. If it doesn't turn on, the pump is bad, but replacing it ($300, including switch) is just as easy as replacing the switch—simply lift out the old pump and put a new one in. If the pump works, run water for a minute to flush out the dirty water—but don't let the water level go below the pump or you'll burn out the pump. Then remove the basin top. Pull the vent pipe from the top and loosen the coupling or union that joins the waste line together (wrap a towel around the pipe to catch any water).
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